The Essential Role of Alewives: Celebrating Women Brewers from the Dawn of Beer to 19th Century Belgium
Beer has been a staple of human civilization for thousands of years. From ancient Sumer to medieval Europe, it has been brewed, shared, and celebrated. In every era, women have been at the heart of brewing, not merely as participants, but as the skilled artisans who ensured beer’s place at the table. In Belgium, the tradition of female brewers, known as alewives, is a crucial part of the brewing legacy. Their craft and contribution to society as skilled brewers—often in the face of tremendous societal pressure—deserves to be celebrated, for without them, the world of beer would not be what it is today.
The Dawn of Brewing: Women as Pioneers
The history of brewing stretches back to the beginnings of civilization itself. Evidence of early brewing dates back to around 3500 BCE in Mesopotamia, where the Sumerians brewed beer, often with women as the primary brewers. In these ancient societies, women were the first to craft beer. It wasn’t just a domestic task—it was an essential cultural activity. Early beer was likely brewed in homes by women who were recognized for their brewing skill and knowledge.
Beer was a communal drink that brought people together, and women were at the heart of that communal tradition. They brewed beer for festivals, feasts, and daily consumption. This powerful role of women as brewers continued through history, from ancient Egypt, where women brewed beer for Pharaohs, to medieval Europe. In Belgium, the role of women as alewives became more formalized, and they were central to the brewing culture long before beer became the mass-produced commodity it is today.
The Alewife in Medieval and Early Modern Belgium: A Pillar of the Community
In medieval Belgium, as in many parts of Europe, brewing was primarily a domestic activity carried out by women in their homes. Women were not only in charge of brewing beer for their families but were also responsible for selling it in local markets. It was no small task. Brewing required expertise, attention to detail, and patience—qualities that women had cultivated for centuries. Alewives were highly respected figures in their communities because of their skill, knowledge, and the role they played in ensuring the steady supply of beer.
The medieval Belgian alewife was far more than a simple home brewer. She was a vital part of the local economy, ensuring the flow of beer to local taverns, markets, and festivals. As beer was often safer to drink than water, alewives became the keepers of the local drink, a symbol of both health and community. They were not just brewing beer—they were maintaining traditions that brought people together, creating social bonds, and nourishing the body and spirit of the community.
As the brewing process became more formalized, women remained integral to beer-making. Women would often run taverns and inns where beer was served, but more significantly, they managed the actual brewing process. Their homes and small workshops served as the birthplace for many of Belgium’s most enduring beer traditions. In a society where women were often confined to the domestic sphere, the role of the alewife was a powerful exception, allowing women to contribute to the economy while preserving the deeply rooted tradition of brewing.
17th Century: The Professional Alewife
As urbanization spread in the 17th century, brewing became an even more important business, and women continued to play a crucial role in this transition. Marguerite de la Porte of Mechelen, for example, is an early recorded example of a woman running a larger-scale brewing operation. Marguerite’s brewery was not just for household consumption—it was a professional business. She brewed and sold her beer at local markets, showing that women could manage and even grow brewing businesses. At a time when the brewing world was still largely governed by the constraints of tradition, Marguerite’s success was a testament to the prowess and business acumen of alewives.
The 17th century also saw the expansion of commercial breweries in towns and cities across Belgium. Women who had learned their craft from family or through apprenticeships began to move into the role of professional alewives. They often operated independently, navigating the complexities of supply chains, sales, and quality control. Alewives like Marguerite were not simply brewing—they were also innovating. The success of their businesses depended on a deep understanding of brewing methods, ingredients, and market demands, making them some of the earliest pioneers of the professional brewing industry.
Women during this time were often excluded from the male-dominated brewing guilds that controlled much of the brewing industry. However, they were undeterred. In fact, many women had the knowledge and experience that made them highly sought after, not only as brewers but as teachers of the craft. Their expertise in fermentation, yeast management, and brewing techniques was a critical part of maintaining the brewing traditions that still influence Belgian beers today.
18th Century: Women at the Helm of Brewing Enterprises
The 18th century marked a new phase in Belgian brewing, where the demand for beer grew exponentially as cities expanded and beer became a staple drink for both rich and poor alike. While brewing became more industrialized, many women still operated small-scale breweries. These alewives were the backbone of the beer supply in urban and rural areas, continuing a tradition that had been passed down through generations.
Take Marie-Victoire Willems, a widow from Brussels who expanded her late husband’s brewing operation into a thriving enterprise. Marie-Victoire’s story is a powerful one, showing how alewives navigated the complexities of running a business in a male-dominated world. After her husband’s passing, Marie-Victoire took over the brewery, securing contracts with local taverns and producing high-quality beer. She exemplified the resourcefulness and skill of alewives who were not simply brewing beer but managing growing businesses.
Women like Marie-Victoire were the architects of local beer cultures, managing production, distribution, and customer relations. Their role as alewives was more than just a job—it was a key part of the community. These women understood the importance of beer in social life and worked tirelessly to ensure that it was available for all. They knew that beer was more than just a drink; it was a social glue, a source of nutrition, and a cultural cornerstone.
19th Century: Women in the Shadow of Industrialization
By the 19th century, Belgium's brewing industry was rapidly transforming. The Industrial Revolution ushered in mass production, and brewing became a large-scale business dominated by male-run factories. The role of the alewife shifted, but women continued to have an impact, particularly in family-run or smaller-scale breweries.
Elisabeth Smit, who ran a successful brewery in Ghent after the death of her husband, is one such example. Elisabeth kept her husband’s brewery afloat and even managed to expand its operations during a time of great change in the brewing industry. Though the large commercial breweries were beginning to dominate the market, women like Elisabeth proved that their expertise and skill could still hold their own. Elisabeth, like many women before her, had a deep understanding of the brewing process and the market, and she was able to use that knowledge to ensure her brewery’s continued success.
The 19th century also marked the end of many small alewife-run businesses, as mechanization and mass production took hold. Yet, the legacy of women brewers remained embedded in Belgian brewing, thanks to the skill, innovation, and perseverance of alewives who had crafted the beers that helped shape Belgium's brewing identity there is a growing presence of women in the industry in the 21st century, including as brewery owners and brewers. Some notable examples include:
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Brasserie de la Senne: While not fully women-owned, one of the co-founders of this well-regarded brewery, Bernadette Willaert, has played a significant role in its operation, contributing to its success.
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Brouwerij Cantillon: Although this famous brewery in Brussels was founded by the Cantillon family, the current generation includes women who are integral to its operation, particularly Jean Cantillon's daughters, who have taken leadership roles in the business.
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Brouwerij Boon: This brewery, known for its Lambic-style beers, has some women involved in the operations and brewing aspects, though it remains primarily family-run.
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Brasserie de la Lienne: Located in the province of Liège, this brewery is owned by Catherine Boon, who is involved in both brewing and the management side of the business.
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Brasserie des Rocs: A Belgian brewery run by Christine Huybregts, who is part of the leadership team and brings a fresh approach to the traditional methods of brewing.
These breweries represent a small but growing shift toward more women-owned and led businesses within the Belgian beer scene, a trend that is expanding as more women pursue careers in brewing.
The Lasting Legacy of Alewives
The history of Belgian brewing cannot be told without acknowledging the critical role women played as alewives. These women were not just brewers—they were the lifeblood of the brewing industry for centuries. Their skill, their knowledge, and their dedication to the craft were what kept the tradition of beer brewing alive and thriving. Alewives were respected members of their communities, and their contributions to both brewing and social life should be celebrated.
Today, as women continue to take their rightful place in the craft beer movement, the legacy of the alewives lives on. From Marguerite de la Porte, brewing in Mechelen in the 17th century, to Marie-Victoire Willems in Brussels, and Elisabeth Smit in Ghent, these women showed the world that beer brewing was not just a man's domain. Their work paved the way for future generations of women brewers, and ensured that beer, as both a cultural and economic force, would continue to thrive in Belgium for centuries to come. The alewives were, and continue to be, the true queens of brewing.