Part Three of a twelve-day cycling journey from the birthplace of the Pilsner to the Nordic capital of Copenhagen. Part One — The Czech Pours | Part Two — Spring Markets, Long Miles, and Bodega Charcuterie
Day 9: Lithuanian Kitchen
Route: Peetsch > Krakow am See
48.85 mi | 830 ft climbing | 3:54 moving time | 5:31 elapsed time
Breakfast was filling and traditional. As I was now a bit off the EV7, I would be following German cycle routes for the day heading toward Krakow am See.
I made my way into the small town of Bleddin, where I stopped for lunch at a small Indian restaurant. The staff were exceptionally friendly — noticing I had used my last water bottles to refill, they offered to top them up without being asked. Small gestures on a long journey land differently than they do at home.
True to form, I hadn’t made accommodation arrangements for the night. Arriving in Krakow am See I found the first place that offered secure bike storage and made it my own. The right call — it wasn’t crowded, the staff were warm and welcoming, and the hotel kitchen was serving homemade Lithuanian dishes. Beet soup and pierogi in a white sauce with leeks, alongside a Lübzer Pils.
After dinner I took a short walk to the sea.
I’m happy. I ate well today.
Day 10: The Last Ferry
Route: Krakow am See, Germany > Væggerløse, Denmark
59.25 mi | 1,467 ft climbing | 4:52 moving time | 8:17 elapsed time
After a breakfast of meats, cheese, and fresh pastries, I headed out with approximately 45 miles to cover before catching the afternoon ferry to Denmark from Rostock. The route followed German cycling trails through hilly forest and logging paths, and it was moving slower than planned. Every minute mattered.
The ferry terminal sits about 5km beyond Rostock’s beach district, where a string of restaurants, cafés, and gathering places lines the shore. I reached the ferry station with only minutes to spare, joining the other cyclists as we were directed to stow our bikes near the front of the ship on the lower deck. There is something quietly satisfying about riding into the empty hull of a large vessel.
I secured the bike to the rail and went to find food. The ferry had a large upper deck with multiple dining options. In the interest of economics — knowing the volume of liquid I was going to work through — I opted for the buffet: multiple glasses of juice, cola, lager, and coffee, alongside fresh fruit, pastries, fish, potatoes, beef, and a range of other hot items. A proper meal at sea.
Once in Denmark I took a more direct route toward Copenhagen rather than following the EV7 along the coast. The wind made its presence known immediately — side gusts of 14–16mph that the flat German roads had not prepared me for. I was glad I had secured accommodation within 20 miles of the ferry landing earlier in the day; the host had confirmed secure bike storage promptly when I enquired, which had simplified the morning’s logistics considerably.
My accommodation was a few miles off the trail. I picked up snacks for the evening at a small store near the trail exit and turned into a residential neighborhood to find my place for the night.
It was outstanding. The host answered the door with a smile that made me feel immediately welcome. The bathroom was large and featured a whirlpool tub. A small honor-bar system offered local treats, drinks, and bath luxuries — everything clearly labeled with its price. I settled in with a Falsters Lyng Bock from the Falster Destilleri & Bryghus and soaked in the tub. Nuts and snacks for dinner. No complaints.
Day 11: Oh, That Wind
Route: Væggerløse > Haslev, DK
52.36 mi | 1,693 ft climbing | 4:49 moving time | 7:31 elapsed time
Breakfast was on my own — but I had snacks enough to hold me until something more substantial appeared. I was still feeling strong.
Less than 100 miles to Copenhagen. The thought alone adds something to the legs. I followed the EV7 part of the way north through more rapeseed fields and along the Danish coast. A lunch stop for fish and chips along the shore — 60 degrees in the sun but the sea wind had other ideas.
I had made accommodation for the evening at the Dalby Hotel in Haslev, which advertised a secure exterior bike shed. After lunch I rode north leisurely, taking in the Danish coastline, the rapeseed fields, and the small villages along the way.
Check-in was simple. No coffee maker in the room, but free coffee, tea, and hot cocoa were available in a small lobby just down the hall — alongside a shared refrigerator for guests, operated on the honor system. Label your items with your room number using the yellow Post-it notes provided on top of the fridge, or consider them gone. I appreciated the simplicity and the trust embedded in the system.
For dinner: mushroom soup, the chef’s burger, and a Sort from the nearby Næstved Bryghus. A good final evening before the last push.
Day 12: Radar Love
Route: Haslev > København, DK
37.49 mi | 351 ft climbing | 3:03 moving time | 3:32 elapsed time
After breakfast I followed local cycleways north along the Danish Baltic coast and into the city. As I entered Copenhagen, the sound of cheering and a live band reached me before I understood what was happening — participants of the Copenhagen Spartan Race were finishing nearby, and their jubilation mixed with mine. The band played on. Twelve days and 680 miles had delivered me here.
A week in Copenhagen stretched out ahead — time to rest, time to spend with family, and time to work through that beer list.
The trip was perfect. A few hiccups, but that’s what makes a journey worth remembering. The food was outstanding — I wished I had eaten a bit more, not because I was especially hungry, but because good food and good beer deserve full attention, and I probably missed a few chances to give them that. I set out to ride my bike, find new beer, and take in as many things along the way as I could. I may have missed a few. I may have passed a few chances to slow down. But it was always about the days themselves — long days on a loaded bike, exploring whatever was around the next corner. The freedom of that is difficult to describe to someone who hasn’t felt it.
I am ready to do it again.
Trip Summary
680 miles | 12 days | 60+ hours in the saddle | ~16,000 feet of climbing | 50+ new beers
Czech Republic → Germany → Denmark
Bike & Gear | Full Beer List — 50+ beers
← Part One: The Czech Pours | ← Part Two: Spring Markets, Long Miles, and Bodega Charcuterie